American Alpine Club Climbing Awards 2023

Climb of the Year

For pushing the limits of climbing, whether that is the grade or the most epic story—the redemption arc, the new frontier, or defying the odds. Whose send (or even attempt) changed the game this year?

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* 1. What is your selection for the inaugural Climb of the Year Award?

Shawn Raboutou

Vince Anderson and Josh Wharton

Madaleine Sorkin

Full Circle Everest Team

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Shawn Raboutou—Two V17's in a Year

Shawn Raboutou, a 24-year-old boulderer from Boulder, CO, climbed Alphane (V17) and Megatron (V17), the highest V grade in the world. This is the fourth and fifth established V17 in the world next to Nalle Hukkataival’s Burden of Dreams, Daniel Woods’ Return of the Sleepwalker, and Simon Lorenzi’s Soudain Seul (the latter’s grade is up for debate). In classic Raboutou style, he decided to announce these ascents well after the send.

Raboutou competed in various world cup and climbing world championships from 2015 to 2017. But in recent years he is known for completing difficult bouldering problems. In 2021 he established F**k the System (V16) and Story of 3 worlds (V16) located in Switzerland. These aren’t the first—Raboutou has a list of V16 under his belt including his FA of Off The Wagon Sit (V16) and Big Z (V16) and repeats of Creature of the Black Lagoon (V16) and The Finnish Line (V16).

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Photo by AAC member Henna Taylor

Madaleine Sorkin—FFA of Dunn-Westbay Direct (5.14-)

Madaleine Sorkin free climbed Dunn-Westbay Direct (5.14-) on the Diamond of Longs Peak. She is the first woman to free the route and the overall fifth person to free climb on lead. The route sits above 13,000 ft and the crux pitch requires an 80-meter rope, following the splitter to the summit. The 2022 alpine season had a lot of storms making the crux pitch and the pitch above often wet. The week Sorkin sent the whole route was dry.

This is not Sorkin’s first female FA. In 2006 Sorkin was part of an all-female team who freed the Moonlight Buttress (5.12+) in Zion. In addition, she was the first woman to free the Honeymoon is Over (5.13c) on the Diamond in 2016. Sorkin is an AMGA rock guide and leading big wall climber in North America based in Colorado. You can listen to Sorkin discuss the merits of celebrating female first ascents, along with Lynn Hill, Arlene Bloom, and Sarah Hart, on the @americanalpine podcast.

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Photo by AAC member Drew Smith

Josh Wharton and Vince Anderson— Freed Suerte (5.13a, WI6, M7)

Josh Wharton and Vince Anderson freed Suerte (5.13a WI6 M7) route on Perus's 20,000 ft peak, Jirishanca. The duo climbed the route in a three-day push after turning around four pitches from the summit in 2019. The route was originally climbed in 2003 by an Italian team along the northeast ridge on the mountain’s south face but was never summited. The route consists of 39 pitches of rock, ice, and mixed climbing. Listen to Wharton and Anderson explain the semantics of their alpine-style ascent of Jirishanca on @thecuttingedge podcast.

Wharton grew up in southern New Hampshire and found climbing in his teenage years. He is best known for his alpine ascents in Canada and Patagonia but is an all-around climber. Wharton has established and freed numerous routes in the Black Canyon as well as being a three-time consecutive winner in the Ouray mixed climbing competition.

Anderson is a world-class climber, alpinist, and guide living in Colorado's western slope. In 2006, Anderson and Steve House won the Piolet d’Or for their alpine FA of Central Pillar of the Rupal Face (M5X, 5.9, WI4).

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Photo by Evan Green

Full Circle Everest—First all-Black Ascent of Mount Everest

Full Circle Everest was the first team of all-Black climbers to summit Mount Everest. Inspiring and shedding light on the disparity that still exists for the Black community in the outdoor space, the group made history, doubling the number of Black climbers to reach the summit of Everest. Full Circle provides a welcoming and comfortable space for individuals to gain skills and feel represented and empowered in the outdoors.

The seven climbers who summited included Manoah Ainuu, Eddie Taylor, Rosemary Saal, Demond Mullins, Thomas Moore, James “KG” Kagami, and Evan Green. The Sherpa climbers who summited with them were Pasang Nima Sherpa, Lhakpa Sonam Sherpa, Phurtemba Sherpa, Dawa Chhiri Sherpa, Sonam Gyalje Sherpa, Nima Nuru Sherpa, Chopal Sherpa, Chawang Lhendup Sherpa, Tasha Gyalje Sherpa. Philip Henderson, the team leader; Frederick Campbell, and Abby Dione were unable to summit but everyone safely made it back to basecamp. Listen to the team talk about their ascent, climate change and partnership in climbing on the @americanalpine podcast. Learn more about Full Circle Expeditions, and the unique climbing careers of all the members of the Full Circle Everest team, here.